Carlsbad, New Mexico
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Carlsbad By Tania Soussan
Carlsbad is becoming more and more a city of gems. Everyone knows about Carlsbad Caverns National Park, and Living Desert Zoo & Gardens has long been a favorite destination. The parks, walking trails and beach along the Pecos River near downtown also are popular attractions.
Now, a boutique hotel and gourmet restaurant are giving travelers even more reason to visit
the southern New Mexico town. The elegant Trinity Hotel –
along with its fine dining restaurant, wine bar and gift shop –
is attracting people from around the world. But in 2007, the historic First National Bank building was in disrepair, its future uncertain. In came local businessmen Dale and Derek Balzano and Michael Moore. Working against the odds – many believed the building should be demolished -- they took on the renovation of the 1892 brick building, restoring it to its former grandeur.
Dale Balzano and his son, Derek, were looking for a good location to offer tastings of their own Balzano Vineyards/Spirit of Seven Rivers varietals.
Now they have it. Guests can sit at the handsome wood bar in the restaurant and sample Balzano’s offerings as well as wines from the award-winning Luna Rossa Winery in Deming.
Throughout the hotel and restaurant, original woodwork, high ceilings and transom windows blend with contemporary furnishings for sophisticated comfort.
The nine guest rooms are immaculate and feature free wi-fi access, flat screen TVs, iPod docking stations, robes and wine chillers.
Guests enjoy espresso drinks and pastries downstairs in the restaurant each morning.
“We’ve tried to create a different niche here,” Balzano said. The Trinity staff is friendly and eager to please.
We spent one night in room 203 and they happily set up a comfy air mattress for our young daughter. High-quality white linens made up our comfy bed, and the oversized bathroom was stocked with organic toiletries.
On our second night, we switched to room 201, which has a sofa sleeper and a large and luxurious free-standing tub that was a big hit with the whole family.
The most unique room is 206, nicknamed The Safe Room. The old bank safe has been turned into a media room with 47-inch flat screen TV and sleeper sofa, making this 1,100-square-foot suite unique.
The main room has a king bed and open-air Jacuzzi tub. Making reservations at The Trinity is a good start to planning a weekend getaway to Carlsbad.
While in town, make a point of eating dinner at the top-rated Trinity restaurant at least once and enjoy the work of Chef Luis Martini, who spent 21 years as the head chef of a California eatery before heading to Carlsbad.
“He brought all his recipes, all his plates. …
He’s the driving force behind our restaurant,” Balzano said, adding, “We’re down here where we’re a long, long ways away from the metropolitan areas, but we’ve done quite well.” Offerings range from steaks and chicken marsala to the popular Lasagna Bolloco, the restaurant’s own New Mexico take on an Italian classic with alfredo sauce, chunks of chicken and Bueno green chile. We started with the caliente goat cheese appetizer, a diner favorite. Roasted local pecans and a blackberry-habañero sauce give local goat cheese a delicious zing. For a main course, we ordered the crab ravioli and salmon, which was cooked to perfection and served with a medley of sautéed vegetables. The meal came with bread sticks and a tomato dipping sauce that was not too sweet and tasted of homegrown tomatoes. Homemade tiramisu is on the dessert menu every night along with several other tempting choices. We opted to share the chocolate marquise and were not disappointed by the decadent, rich chocolate.
Other popular eateries in town include YellowBrix Restaurant; two barbecue joints, Danny’s Place and Red Chimney Pit Bar-B-Que; and The Stock Exchange at Old City Hall just across the street from the hotel. The restaurant serves everything from basic steaks to pan-roasted duck breast. Although it’s popular with locals, it’s best to steer clear of Lucy’s Mexicali Restaurant unless you don’t mind waiting more than 45 minutes for food that’s not worth the wait.
When you’re not eating, there’s plenty to do in and around Carlsbad. Families should head over to the Playground on the Pecos and Lake Carlsbad Beach Park with its swimming area, both along the river and connected by a network of shady, grassy parks and trails.
Balzano’s daughter runs a concession with snacks, kayak and pedal boat rentals, and guided river cruises.
The state park’s Living Desert Zoo & Gardens specializes in native plants and animals of New Mexico and the Chihuahuan Desert, including javelina, prairie dogs, bison, pronghorn, rattlesnakes and the endangered Mexican gray wolf.
A greenhouse showcases both native and exotic cacti and succulents.
A visit to Carlsbad Caverns, about 30 minutes south of town, can easily be a day-long adventure.
About 50 miles southwest of Carlsbad is the Sitting Bull Falls Recreation Area in the Lincoln National Forest. Currently open Friday through Monday afternoons, it is a refuge from the summer heat with pools of cool water, a picnic area, hiking and a paved trail to the beautiful 150-foot waterfalls that cascade down canyon walls.
Carlsbad also is a good jumping off point for a trip into the rugged but scenic Guadalupe Mountains National Park, which sits 55 miles to the south in Texas.